Agra
Agra has become synonymous with the Taj Mahal. Described as the most
extravagant monument ever built for love it has become the de facto
emblem of India. This poignant Mughal mausoleum was constructed by
Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal.
The city's other major attraction is the massive red sandstone Agra
Fort, also on the bank of the Yamuna River. The fort's colossal walls
rise over 20m in height and are encircled by a fetid moat. Within
are a maze of superb halls, mosques, chambers and gardens, which form
a small city within a city. Not all buildings are open to visitors,
including the white marble Pearl Mosque, regarded by some as the most
beautiful mosque in India.
Other worthwhile Mughal gems include the Itimad-ud-Daulah, many of
whose design elements were used in the construction of the Taj, and
Akbar's Mausoleum at Sikandra which blends Islamic, Hindu, Buddhist,
Jain and Christian motifs, much like the syncretic religious philosophy
developed by Akbar attempted to do.
Bangalore
Bangalore, the 'Garden City’, capital of Karnataka State was
founded in 1537 AD by a Vijaynagar chieftan. In the 18th century
it was the stronghold of Haider Ali and Tipu Sultan. Today it is
India’s main industrial city with industries like aircraft,
telephones and electronics.
Chennai (Madras)
India’s 4th largest city and capital of Tamilnadu State. This
coastal center of trade has drawn traffic from all over the world
for centuries and the legacy of the British East India Company mixes
with traditional Tamil culture to create an interesting, cosmopolitan
atmosphere.
Cochin (Kochi)
The port city of Kochi is located on a cluster of islands and narrow
peninsulas. The older parts of the city are an unlikely blend of
medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village grafted
onto the tropical Malabar Coast. Down near the waterfront you can
see St Francis Church, India's oldest; a 450-year-old Portuguese
palace, Chinese fishing nets strung out past Fort Cochin and a synagogue
dating back to the mid-16th century. Ferries scuttle back and forth
between the various parts of Kochi, and dolphins can often be seen
in the harbor. Most of the historical sights are in Fort Cochin
or Mattancherry.
Darjeeling
Straddling a ridge at an altitude of over 2100m in the far north
of West Bengal, Darjeeling has been a favorite hill station of the
British since the mid-1800s. The town remains as popular as ever
and offers visits to Buddhist monasteries, tours to tea plantations,
shopping in bustling bazaars and trekking in high-altitude spots
to the north. Like many places in the Himalaya, half the fun is
in getting there. Darjeeling has the unique attraction of the famous
miniature train, which loops and switchbacks its way from the plains
up to Darjeeling in a 10-hour grind of soot and smoke.
Among the town's highlights is the Passenger Ropeway, the first
chairlift to be constructed in India, which connects Darjeeling
with Singla Bazaar on the Little Ranjit River far below. It's a
superb excursion, though not an obvious choice for vertigo sufferers.
Nearby is the Zoological Park, which houses Siberian tigers and
rare red pandas in less than ideal conditions. The precious snow
leopards are kept in a separate enclosure and get a much better
deal. If you're interested in learning about the complex tea-producing
process, call in at the Happy Valley Tea Estate.
Delhi
Despite the seeming chaos Delhi is a city rich with culture, architecture
and human diversity, deep with history and totally addictive to
epicureans. Mix four major religions, thousands of years of history
and cultural development, significant movements of different populations,
invasions and colonization and you get one of the most vibrant and
profound cultures in the world. The power of these influences is
evident in the plentiful historical sites around Delhi.
Goa
Goa is a land known for its atmosphere, its wonderfully fresh seafood
cuisine, its sense of joie de vivre, its people, its churches and
temples, and last but not the least for its beaches. The allure
of Goa is that it remains quite distinct from the rest of India
and is small enough to be grasped and explored
Jaipur
The capital of Rajasthan is popularly known as the 'pink city' because
of the ochre-pink hue of its old buildings and crenellated city
walls. The Rajputs considered pink to be a color associated with
hospitality, and are reputed to have daubed the city in preparation
for the visit of Britain's Prince Alfred in 1853. Jaipur owes its
name, its foundation and its careful planning to the great warrior-astronomer
Maharaja Jai Singh II (1699-1744), who took advantage of declining
Mughul power to move from his somewhat cramped hillside fortress
at nearby Amber to a new site on the plains in 1727. He laid out
the city's surrounding walls and its six rectangular blocks with
the help of Shilpa-Shastra, an ancient Hindu treatise on architecture.
Today Jaipur is a city of broad avenues and remarkable architectural
harmony, built on a dry lakebed surrounded by barren hills. It's
an extremely colorful city and, in the evening light, it radiates
a magical warm glow. The city has now sprawled beyond its original
fortified confines, but most of its attractions are compactly located
in the walled 'pink city' in the northeast. All seven gates into
the old city remain, one of which leads into Johari Bazaar - the
famous jewelers' market.
The most obvious landmark in the old city is the Iswari Minar Swarga
Sul (the Minaret Piercing Heaven), but the most striking sight is
the stunning artistry of the five-storey facade of the Hawa Mahal,
or Palace of the Winds. The palace was built in 1799 to enable ladies
of the royal household to watch street life and processions, and
is part of the City Palace complex that forms the heart of the old
city.
Jodhpur
Jodhpur stands at the edge of the Thar Desert and is the largest
city in Rajasthan. Among Rajasthan's many princely settlements,
Jodhpur is one of the most distinctive. This five hundred year old
settlement was the headquarters of the Rathore Rajput's celebrations
for their tales of daring.
Kerala Backwaters
The complex network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals fringing
the coast of Kerala forms the basis of a distinct regional lifestyle,
and traveling by boat along these backwaters is one of the highlights
of a visit to the state. The boats cross shallow, palm-fringed lakes
studded with Chinese fishing nets, and along narrow, shady canals
where coir (coconut fiber), copra and cashews are loaded onto boats.
Stops are made at small settlements where people live on carefully
cultivated narrow spits of land only a few meters wide, and there's
the chance to see traditional boats with huge sails, and prows carved
into the shape of dragons.
Khajuraho
This quiet, genial, dusty village in northern Madhya Pradesh is
awash with temples. Temples for everything - sun gods, sacred bulls
and, more memorably and most prominently, sex. The erotic possibilities
suggested by the stone figures in the numerous temples have contributed
to Khajuraho's international fame. Another prime feature of the
temple craftsmanship is that they are liberally embellished with
some of the finest handiwork of the Chandela period, a dynasty that
survived for five centuries before falling to the onslaught of Islam.
The largest and most important temples are in the attractively landscaped
Western Group. Externally, the temples consist of curvilinear towers
with clusters of lesser turrets clinging to them, suggestive of
rising mountain peaks (ahem) converging round a great central peak.
Round the exterior walls are two, sometimes three, superimposed
rows of gods, goddesses, kings and heroes, courtesans, couples in
carnal embrace and, in some cases, friezes depicting various forms
of bestiality. The interiors are just as ornate, with an open portico
leading into a main hall, then a vestibule beyond which is an inner
sanctum containing the freestanding cult image. In fact, the sculpture
and architecture blend so perfectly that each building appears to
have been conceived by a single - and highly sexed - mastermind.
Mumbai
Mumbai is the glamour of Bollywood cinema, cricket on the maidans
on weekends, bhelpuri on the beach at Chowpatty and red double-decker
buses. It is also the infamous cages of the red-light district,
Asia's largest slums, communalist politics and powerful mafia dons.
Take the time to explore the majestic remnants of colonial history,
the galleries showing the latest in Indian contemporary art, the
busy markets and the evening parade of locals at Chowpatty Beach.
Mysore
This charming, easy-going city has long been a favorite with travelers
since it is a manageable size, enjoys a good climate and has chosen
to retain and promote its heritage rather than replace it. The city
is famous for its silk and is also a thriving sandalwood and incense
center; though don't expect the air to be any more fragrant than
the next town.
Until Independence, Mysore was the seat of the Maharajas of Mysore,
a princely state covering about a third of present-day Karnataka.
The Maharaja's Indo-Saracenic Palace is the town's major attraction,
with its kaleidoscope of stained glass, ornate mirrors, carved mahogany
ceilings, solid silver doors and outrageously gaudy colors.
The Devaraja Fruit & Vegetable Market, in the heart of the town,
is one of the most colorful markets in India. The other major attraction
is the 1000-step climb up nearby Chamundi Hill, which is topped
by a huge temple. The stairway is guarded by the famous 5-meter
high Nandi (Shiva's bull vehicle) carved out of solid rock.
Udaipur
The most romantic city in Rajasthan, built around the lovely Lake
Pichola, has inevitably been dubbed the 'Venice of the East'. Founded
in 1568 by Maharana Udai Singh, the city is a harmonious Indian
blend of whitewashed buildings, marble palaces, lakeside gardens,
temples and havelis (traditional mansions). It boasts an enviable
artistic heritage, a proud reputation for performing arts and a
relatively plentiful water supply, all of which have helped make
it an oasis of civilization and color in the midst of drab aridity.
Lake Pichola is the city's centerpiece and it contains two delightful
island palaces - Jagniwas and Jagmandir - the very definition of
Rajput whimsy. The former is now an exquisite luxury hotel. The
huge City Palace towers over the lake and is bedecked with balconies,
towers and cupolas. It contains a museum, some fine gardens and
several more luxury hotels. Other attractions in Udaipur include
the gates to the old walled city and its lovely alleyways; the fine
Indo-Aryan Jagdish Temple, dating from the mid-17th century; and
the lakeside Bagore ki Haveli, once a royal guesthouse, but now
a cultural center.
Despite the long list of sights and attractions, the real joy of
Udaipur is finding a pleasant lakeside guesthouse, scrambling up
to the roof and watching the activity at the ghats, listening to
the rhythmic 'thwomp!' as washerwomen thrash the life out of their
laundry, and sensing the gentle changes of light on the water as
the slow days progress.
Varanasi
For over 2000 years, Varanasi, the 'eternal city', has been one
of the holiest places in India. Built on the banks of the sacred
Ganges, it is said to combine the virtues of all other places of
pilgrimage and anyone who ends their days here, regardless of creed
and however great their misdeeds, is transported straight to heaven.
Varanasi is also an important seat of learning, and is the home
of novelists, philosophers and grammarians. This has been reflected
in its role in the development of Hindi - the closest thing to a
national language in India.
Varanasi has over 100 bathing and burning ghats but the Manikarnika
Ghat is the main burning ghat and one of the most auspicious places
that a Hindu can be cremated. Corpses are handled by outcasts known
as chandal, who carry them through the alleyways of the old city
to the holy Ganges on a bamboo stretcher swathed in cloth. You'll
see huge piles of firewood stacked along the top of the ghat, each
log carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation
can be calculated. There are no problems watching cremations, since
at Manikarnika death is simply business as usual, but leave your
camera at your hotel.
The best ghat to hang out at and absorb the riverside activity is
Dasaswamedh Ghat. Here you'll find a dense concentration of people
who come to the edge of the Ganges not only for a ritual bath, but
to do yoga, offer blessings, buy paan, sell flowers, get a massage,
play cricket, have a swim, get a shave, and do their karma good
by giving money to beggars.
Apart from the many ghats lining the river, the city's other highlights
include the Golden Temple, built in a roofed quadrangle with stunning
gilded towers; shopping at markets famous for their ornamental brass
work, lacquered toys, shawls, silks and sitars; losing yourself
in the impossibly narrow labyrinthine alleyways which snake back
from the ghats; visiting the nearby Buddhist center of Sarnath;
and taking the compulsory dawn river trip slowly down the Ganges. |